Auto Focus Considerations

This article discusses some basic auto focus considerations and was prompted by a few emails that I recently received from readers. Some of these emails had questions that were specific to the OM-1. Since I have never used this camera, and have no plans to do any kind of review on it, I’m unable to comment specifically on that model.

NOTE: Click on images to enlarge.

Nikon 1 V3 + 1 Nikon 70-300 mm f/4.5-5.6 @208 mm, efov 562 mm, f/5.6, 1/1250, ISO-4500

Obviously with more AI technology being incorporated into the newest models of camera, auto subject recognition of various types is becoming an increasingly important consideration for many photographers.

Nikon 1 V3 + 1 Nikon CX 70-300mm f/4.5-5.6 @ 300mm, efov 810mm, f/5.6, 1/2000, ISO-1000

These new technologies can absolutely be very helpful, but we need to remember that success was being achieved by many photographers without it in the past. Investing one’s hard earned money in cameras with the latest technology should be carefully considered, as additional investments in new lenses may also be required. As we all know, the cost of new camera gear can add up very quickly.

OM-D E-M1X + M.Zuiko 100-400 mm f/5-6.3 IS @ 400 mm, efov 800 mm, f/6.3, 1/1600, ISO-200, Bird Detection AI Subject Tracking, cropped to 3966 pixels on the width, distance to subject 14.9 metres

Some folks are spending quite a bit of time studying reviews of auto-focus performance between different camera bodies of different sensor formats. Unless a photographer has a lot of disposable income, and is actively considering moving to a different camera system that incorporates a different size sensor, its hard for me to see the practicality of these types of reviews.

OM-D E-M1X + M.Zuiko 100-400 mm f/5-6.3 IS with M.Zuiko MC-14 teleconverter @ 560 mm, efov 1120 mm, f/9, 1/1600, ISO-4000, cropped to 3286 pixels on the width, subject distance 3.6 metres

If there is no serious purchase intent, a photographer’s time is likely better spent out in the field actively using and experimenting with their current gear, rather than reading about apples to oranges comparisons. There is no such thing as a perfect camera or sensor format. The suitability of camera equipment is solely dependent on the specific needs of an individual photographer.

Olympus OM-D E-M1X + M.Zuiko PRO 40-150 mm f/2.8 with M.Zuiko MC-20 teleconverter @ 300 mm, efov 600 mm, f/5.6, 1/2500, ISO-3200, Pro Capture H mode

For example, as a former full frame camera user who has moved on from that format, assessments of the auto-focusing performance of various full frame brands and models are completely irrelevant to me. I’m never going to move back into full frame equipment so why would I waste my time reading those types of reviews? If I’m going to ask my old, porous brain to take in some new information it behooves me to make sure it is relevant and practical.

Nikon 1 V3 + 1 Nikkor CX 70-300 mm f/4.5-5.6 @ 300 mm, efov 810 mm, f/5.6, 1/1250, ISO-450

I made a mistake back in July 2015 by putting too much stock in the opinions expressed in formal, online camera reviews. Having just sold all of my full frame gear, I wasn’t 100% sure that I should only shoot with Nikon 1 gear. I had a tiny bit of hesitation. So, I read lots of reviews and decided to purchase another smaller sensor camera with a couple of f/2.8 pro zoom lenses. About ten days later I paid a small restocking charge to return all of that gear.

Nikon 1 V2 + 1 Nikkor CX 70-300 mm f/4.5-5.6 @ 300 mm, efov 810 mm, f/5.6, 1/3200, ISO-320

As could be expected, there was nothing wrong with the camera for video work. However, the auto-focus performance for wildlife, especially birds in lower light conditions, was totally unacceptable for my needs. The final straw came with a visit to Bird Kingdom where the newly acquired camera missed over half of my attempts to photograph perched birds in lower light conditions. These were very simple captures with which I would have had a 100% success rate with my Nikon 1 V2.

Nikon 1 V3 + 1 Nikkor CX 70-300 mm f/4.5-5.6 @ 70 mm, efov 189 mm, f/5.6, 1/1600, ISO-360

I have no idea what the auto-focusing performance is like now with the brand that I tried out in 2015. So, sharing this experience is only made to highlight the fact that just because something is stated in a review, or is the opinion of someone else, doesn’t mean a particular camera will meet a specific photographer’s needs in terms of auto-focusing performance.

Olympus OM-E E-M1X + M.Zuiko PRO 40-150 mm f/2.8 with M.Zuiko MC-20 teleconverter @ 300 mm, efov 600 mm, f/5.6, 1/2500, ISO-2000, Pro Capture H, subject distance 10.5 metres

One question I received was how I would use Bird Detection AI to photograph a bird hidden behind a myriad of twigs and branches. How many focus points would I use? What frame rate? Would I use continuous auto-focus or single auto focus?

Olympus OM-D E-M1X + M.Zuiko PRO 40-150 mm f/2.8 with M.Zuiko MC-20 teleconverter @ 300 mm, efov 600 mm, f/5.6, 1/1600, ISO-1250, Pro Capture H mode, subject distance 6.9 metres

None of those questions seemed very relevant to me. The big question in my mind was why would I choose to use Bird AI in a situation for which there was a better, and more practical option?

E-M1X + M.Zuiko 100-400 mm f/5-6.3 IS @ 200 mm, efov 400 mm, f/8, 1/2500, ISO-3200, Pro Capture H, cropped to 3336 pixels on the width, subject distance 4.2 metres

Just because our cameras may have certain technologies resident in them, doesn’t mean that we should try to force fit the use of that technology into situations when there is a more appropriate solution. All of our cameras have a number of auto-focusing options for a reason.

OM-D E-M1X + M.Zuiko 100-400 mm f/5-6.3 IS @ 400 mm, efov 800 mm, f/6.3, 1/5000, ISO-2500, Pro Capture H, cropped to 3122 pixels on the width, subject distance 16.9 metres

As photographers it is our responsibility to learn how our camera functions, and how to most effectively use its available auto-focusing capability. For example, some owners of older generation Olympus cameras did not use continuous auto-focus with tracking for birds-in-fight.

OM-D E-M1X + M.Zuiko 100-400 mm f/5-6.3 IS @ 400 mm, efov 800 mm, f/6.3, 1/2500, ISO-1250, Pro Capture H, cropped to 3677 pixels on the width, subject distance 7 metres

They discovered through their own experimentation that the tracking function was not as reliable as they required for their needs. So, they adjusted their settings to deal with the practical realities they faced. Many used a 5X5 grid with continuous auto-focus and found it worked well for them.

OM-D E-M1X + M.Zuiko 100-400 mm f/5-6.3 IS with MC-14 teleconverter @ 560 mm, efov 1120 mm, f/9, 1/2500, ISO-3200, subject distance 3.3 metres, cropped to 4404 pixels on the height, Bird Detection AI Subject Tracking

Obviously technology like Bird Detection AI Subject Tracking can be used to photograph birds perched in amongst branches and twigs. How we choose to utilize technology will be affected by our shooting style. For example, regular readers know that I always use a single, small auto-focusing point for my bird photography. This includes shooting with Pro Capture L or H, or when using Bird Detection AI.

OM-D E-M1X + M.Zuiko 100-400 mm f/5-6.3 IS with MC-14 teleconverter @ 560 mm, efov 1120 mm, f/9, 1/2000, ISO-2500, subject distance 3.4 metres, full frame capture, Bird Detection AI Subject Tracking

When I see an image opportunity that is ideal for Bird AI use, the first thing I do is select the right Custom Mode on my E-M1X. Then I move that single auto-focus point to the approximate spot in the frame where the bird’s eye will be when I compose my image. Since I always reset my starting AF point position to centre frame, I can reposition my single AF point by touch using the joystick control. Without having to look at the rear screen of my camera… or wait until I bring the EVF up to my eye.

OM-D E-M1X + M.Zuiko 100-400 mm f/5-6.3 IS with M.Zuiko MC-14 teleconverter @ 391 mm, efov 782 mm, f/9, 1/1000, ISO-2000, Bird Detection AI Subject Tracking, subject distance 7.3 metres

For example, I know that in most cases a horizontal composition of a bird looking to its left means I need to move my single AF point three spots to the right, and two spots up. I can reposition my single AF point as soon as I decide whether I will be composing a horizontal or vertical composition.  With a composition like the one above, I can move my single AF point three spots up while my camera is still at mid-chest height… then bring my camera to my eye and quickly grab my shot. In some cases our ability to set up our image capture quickly can be more important than our camera’s auto focusing performance.

OM-D E-M1X + M.Zuiko 100-400 mm f/5-6.3 IS @ 400 mm, efov 800 mm, f/6.3, 1/2500, ISO-4000, Pro Capture H, cropped to 3581 pixels on the width, subject distance 4.8 metres

I suspect there are some photographers out there who expect their camera to automatically find their intended subject as soon as they point their camera at it… and automatically overcome any obstructions that may be in the frame. Hmmm… maybe their cameras can make them a sandwich for lunch, and put sunscreen on their faces as well.

OM-D E-M1X + M.Zuiko 100-400 mm f/5-6.3 IS with M.Zuiko MC-14 teleconverter @ 560 mm, efov 1120 mm, f/9, 1/2500, ISO-3200, cropped to 3665 pixels on the width, Pro Capture H, subject distance 4.2 metres

Photography is not a spectator sport. If we want to get the most out of the auto-focusing capability of our cameras we need to learn how to assist the technology in our camera body by adapting our shooting technique.

OM-D E-M1X + M.Zuiko 100-400 mm f/5-6.3 IS with M.Zuiko MC-14 Teleconverter @ 359 mm, efov 718 mm, f/8.7, 1/3200, ISO-3200, cropped to 3803 pixels on the width, Pro Capture H, subject distance 6 metres

Depending on the expected movement direction of our subject, we may not need to use continuous auto-focus. Single auto focus with a fast frame rate may be a better solution. Especially if a subject bird is deep inside a tree and moving horizontally.

OM-D E-M1X + M.Zuiko 100-400mm f/5-6.3 IS @ 400mm, f/6.3, 1/2500, ISO-1250, cropped to 3372 pixels on the width, Pro Capture H, subject distance 14.7 metres

The timing of our shutter release can be just as important as the auto-focusing mode that we choose.

OM-D E-M1X + M.Zuiko 100-400 mm f/5-6.3 IS @ 400 mm, f/6.3, 1/1000, ISO-800, digital teleconverter, subject distance 9.7 metres

We can assess a subject and decide that trying to focus on its eye likely isn’t going to work. That may lead us to select another focusing point that is on the same focal plan as the subject’s eye… and still get an in-focus capture.

OM-D E-M1X + M.Zuiko PRO 40-150 mm @ 150 mm, efov 300 mm, f/8, -0.7 EV, 1/2500, ISO-3200, Pro Capture H, cropped to 3546 pixels on the width, subject distance 870 mm

Regardless of the camera body we own, and the sensor format that makes the most sense for our needs, the key to auto focusing performance is learning what our gear can do. And, how to adapt to specific shooting situations. We need to remember that our goal is to always get the shot. It’s not to force fit the use of specific technology.

OM-D E-M1X + M.Zuiko 100-400 mm f/5-6.3 IS @ 385 mm, efov 770 mm, f/6.3, 1/1600, ISO-250, Pro Capture L, Bird Detection AI, cropped to 3500 pixels on the width, subject distance 60.4 metres

Our cameras may have technologies that can be combined… for example using Pro Capture L with Bird Detection AI Subject Tracking. The result can be a 1 + 1 = 3 solution for specific types of image opportunities.

Olympus OM-D E-M1X + M.Zuiko PRO 40-150 mm f/2.8 and M.Zuiko MC-20 teleconverter @ 212 mm, efov 424 mm, f/6.3, 1/2000, ISO-2500, Pro Capture H Mode, subject distance 6.3 metres

Unless I specifically try to demonstrate a camera’s continuous auto-focus capability for an article, I’ve never seen the value in capturing long, uninterrupted image runs of birds-in-flight. Most long photographic runs are full of repetitive looking images that take time to edit in post, and clog up space on a memory card. As such I think they are a waste of time.

OM-D E-M1X + M.Zuiko 100-400 mm f/5-6.3 IS @ 400 mm, efov 800 mm, f/8, 1/4000, ISO-1250, Pro Capture L, Bird Detection AI Subject Tracking, cropped to 1999 pixels on the width, subject distance 25.8 metres

I would much rather capture a specific moment with just a few images that I can use efficiently. At the end of the day, using whatever auto-focusing capability allows me to do that is all I really care about.

OM-D E-M1X + M.Zuiko PRO 40-150mm f/2.8 with M.Zuiko MC-20 teleconverter @ 80mm, f/5.6, 1/2500, ISO-320, Pro Capture L, Bird Detection AI, cropped to 4049 pixels on the width, subject distance 4.7 metres

It is true that a camera’s auto-focusing capability can make a difference. This is only maximized when a photographer is actively engaged with their camera equipment, and learns how to use if effectively. To get the most out of our gear we need to proactively assist the technology resident in our camera by adjusting our shooting style accordingly.

OM-D E-M1X + M.Zuiko 100-400 mm f/5-6.3 IS with M.Zuiko MC-14 teleconverter @ 140 mm, efov 280 mm, f/7.1, 1/1600, ISO-1600, Pro Capture L, Bird Detection AI, cropped to 3962 pixels on the width, subject distance 13.4 metres

If our intent is just to sit back and expect our cameras do everything for us, we’d probably be better off selling our cameras… and capturing our photographs with a Smartphone while sitting in a deck chair, or relaxing in a hammock.

 Technical Note

Photographs were captured handheld using camera gear as noted in the EXIF data. Image 21 was created from an out-of-camera jpeg. All of the other images were produced from RAW files using my standard process in post. This is the 1,335 article published on this website since its original inception in 2015.

OM-D E-M1X + M.Zuiko 100-400 mm f/5-6.3 IS with M.Zuiko MC-14 teleconverter @ 560 mm, efov 1120 mm, f/9, 1/5000, ISO-6400, Pro Capture H, cropped to 3648 pixels on the width, subject distance 4.1 metres

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6 thoughts on “Auto Focus Considerations”

  1. What a great and insightful article. I have fallen for this trap where you keep reading all the time trying to take your doubts away. Which eventually makes you doubt your own gear even more, while spending time outside is much more valuable.

    Expecting the most out of your auto focus is knowing what to expect from you auto focus. Its a learning process I have been going through and am still going through. I am happy I realised at some point I am the one making photos and that my camera isn’t a magic tool that does everything. I think it makes using your gear more fun as well.

    I have two questions. You often mention the use of single point AF. My assumption is this is in C-AF or do you also use S-AF for perched birds?
    And secondly I see you mention the subject distance in your photos. Does your camera give you this information?

    Thanks for a great read. This site is a gem.

    1. Hi Tim,

      I use a single AF point for all of my photography, whether I’m shooting in C-AF or S-AF. This is something that I’ve done for many years with a variety of camera gear.

      Yes, my E-M1X estimates the subject distance. When I process my files in DxO PhotoLab and export a DNG file into PhotoShop the information is revealed. I store all of my photo/video files in Windows Explorer which makes accessing this information on finished files very quick and easy to do.

      Tom

  2. Hi, Thomas.
    Your article makes me realize I need to improve my bird photography skills. Your article reflects your ability to point, hold steady, and follow birds with an accuracy that puts you in the company of the most elite of wildlife photographers. So I understand why you have no need for bird AF. For you, single point AF is superior to bird AF. But I hope you appreciate that a lot of us currently have a much higher keeper rate with bird AF. Perhaps you can recommend some exercises that can help me and others learn to use point AF better. That would make a great article.

    1. Hi Jack,

      I use Bird Recognition AI subject tracking AF for all of my bird-in-flight photography. I use a single AF point in conjunction with Bird AI. I also combine Bird AI with Pro Capture L for all my bird-in-flight photos. I also use Bird AI with a single AF point for my perched bird photography. The only time I don’t use Bird AI is when I’m photographing birds taking flight. For that I use Pro Capture H at 60 fps with a single AF point. I hope this clarifies things.

      Tom

  3. Hi Thomas
    Quite a wide range of wisdom, much appreciated.
    I will try some of the suggestions in the next few days or so.
    Many thanks for sharing.

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