This article shares my M.Zuiko 100-400 mm f/5-6.3 IS hands-on review, and features a wide selection of images captured with this lens. As I’ve mentioned in other articles, this is not a gear review website. I only do reviews of camera equipment that I actually own and use.
So, this M.Zuiko 100-400 review is based on first-hand experiences as an owner of this particular zoom lens. Since receiving it in late November, I’ve been out in the field regularly, capturing thousands of photographs, in a range of conditions.
NOTE: Click on images to enlarge.
Overview
The M.Zuiko 100-400 mm f/5-6.3 IS zoom lens is an important addition to the M.Zuiko family of lenses. Providing an equivalent field-of-view of 200-800 mm, this lens fills a gap between the M.Zuiko 75-300 mm f/4.8-6.7 II zoom (efov 150-600 mm) and the M.Zuiko PRO 300 mm f/4 IS prime (efov 600 mm).
Comparatively lightweight at 1.12 KG (~2.47 lbs.) without the tripod collar, the M.Zuiko 100-400 mm will appeal to a wide range of photographers. With a suggested list price of $2,200 Cdn this is not an inexpensive lens, but does offer photographers excellent value given its capabilities.
The M.Zuiko 100-400 mm f/5-6.3 IS zoom is weathersealed to IPX1 standards and is compatible with both the M.Zuiko MC-14 and MC-20 teleconverters. This increases the efov to 280-1120 mm @ f/7-9 and 400-1600 mm at f/10-13 respectively.
It has a minimum focusing distance of 1.3 metres (~4.27 feet). This minimum focusing distance is consistent throughout the zoom range and is not affected by the use of teleconverters. When coupled with the M.Zuiko MC-20 teleconverter this zoom lens is capable of achieving equivalent image magnification of 1.15X when fully extended.
I won’t be covering all of the specifications in this M.Zuiko 100-400 review as this technical information is readily available. It should be noted that the M.Zuiko 100-400 features a complex optical design which includes 4 ED lenses, 2 super HR lenses and 2 HR lenses. These are contained in its overall design of 21 elements in 15 groups, and which also includes ZERO Coating. Resulting image quality is excellent.
The combination of its comparatively light weight, IPX1 weather-sealing, compatibility with teleconverters, image quality, and short minimum focusing distance make the M.Zuiko 100-400 mm f/5-6.3 IS zoom an incredibly versatile photographic tool.
Build Quality
The M.Zuiko 100-400 mm f/5-6.3 IS feels solid in hand. While the zoom ring operates very smoothly, it is noticeably stiffer than those found on M.Zuiko PRO zoom lenses like the 40-150 mm f/2.8.
This isn’t a personal gripe, but simply an observation. The manual focusing ring is silky smooth. The removable and reversible lens hood does its assigned job, and would be reasonably affordable to replace should the need arise.
All switches operate with self-assured clicks and feel well constructed. Overall the M.Zuiko 100-400 mm f/5-6.3 IS feels solid and very well engineered, as I have come to expect of the other M.Zuiko lenses in our kit. Very little appears to separate this lens from ones designated as M.Zuiko PRO offerings, other than having a variable aperture and non-IS-Sync image stabilization.
Handling & Ergonomics
The M.Zuiko 100-400 mm f/5-6.3 handles very well and feels perfectly balanced on my E-M1X body. Owners of other camera bodies may want to use them with an add-on grip.
There are three switches on the left-hand side of the lens barrel. From top to bottom on the lens barrel they control the 3 position AF Limiter, AF/ MF selector, and In-Lens IS. All are easily accessed with the left thumb of a photographer and are spaced sufficiently apart for easy identification and use.
The 3-position AF Limiter switch has 1.3 to 6 metre, 1.3 metre to infinity, and 6 metre to infinity options. I strongly recommend using the AF Limiter switch as appropriate. It makes a noticeable difference in how quickly the M.Zuiko 100-400 mm zoom acquires focus, and avoids focus hunting.
Other than doing some simple tests, I haven’t had the need to switch from Auto Focus (AF) into Manual Focus (MF). The M.Zuiko 100-400 mm acquires focus fast and reliably in a range of lighting conditions.
While a long telephoto lens weighing in at 1.12 KG (~2.47 lbs.) may seem heavy, it is 0.7 to 1.2 KG lighter (~1.5 to 2.6 lbs.) than full frame lenses of a similar nature.
When I used to shoot with full frame camera gear my birding kit weighed about 2.95 KG (~6.5 lbs.). I could shoot handheld continuously for about 3 hours before arm fatigue would be noticeable.
By comparison my E-M1X with the M.Zuiko 100-400 mm weighs about 2.1 KG (~4.6 lbs.) without the tripod collar, and 2.3 KG (~5 lbs.) with it attached. This weight reduction is significant and has allowed me to shoot continuously with my E-M1X and M.Zuiko 100-400 mm combination for 6-7 hours without any signs of fatigue.
Using the tripod collar without a tripod.
The lens mount on my M.Zuiko 100-400 mm f/5-6.3 IS has a little bit of rotational movement when the focal length is adjusted. Olympus Technical Support officially advised me that this slight movement is normal and will not affect the operation of the lens.
I originally removed the tripod collar from my lens as I always shoot handheld and had no apparent reason to leave the tripod collar attached to the barrel of the lens.
After receiving the information from Olympus Technical Support I decided to attach the tripod collar to see if I could use it to reduce or eliminate the rotational torque on the lens mount. In the long term I feel this is probably better to help reduce potential wear and tear on the camera mount.
In the photograph above you can see how I now hold my M.Zuiko 100-400 mm lens with two fingers hooked onto the tripod foot. This stabilizes the lens quite well and allows the zoom ring, or manual focusing ring to be used without causing rotational torque at the lens mount. I loosen my grip on my E-M1X body slightly when adjusting the focal length. This allows the rotational torque to be absorbed by the tripod collar and the lens barrel.
While using this approach I discovered another advantage in using the tripod collar in this manner. Rather than having to use two partial wrist twists to move the focal length of the M.Zuiko 100-400 mm lens from 100 mm to 400 mm, I can now use one, downward pull of my thumb against the zoom adjustment ring to fully extend the lens. A single thumb push upwards shortens the focal length. These moves are possible because the tripod foot is anchoring the lens in the palm of my hand. The low profile of the tripod foot makes the thumb adjustments possible.
This increases the speed at which I can adjust the focal length of the lens, and allows me to frame my compositions much quicker. Using this technique is especially helpful when using teleconverters with the M.Zuiko 100-400 mm. It allows a photographer to start with the zoom lens in a collapsed, or partially collapsed, position. This makes it much easier to find an incoming bird-in-flight in the viewfinder, then very quickly zoom in on the subject bird with a single downward thumb movement.
I have large hands so folks with a smaller finger spread may not be able to get a full extension/retraction with the same type of thumb movement that I’m using.
Auto-Focusing Performance
The auto-focusing of the M.Zuiko 100-400 mm f/5-6.3 IS is very fast and accurate, even under lower light conditions. Using teleconverters doesn’t seem to have any significant effect on auto focusing performance. I was able to capture the image above with the subject bird only 2.8 metres away, and using an efov of 1004 mm.
The recent firmware upgrade with my E-M1X has added Bird Detection AI to my auto-focusing arsenal. I absolutely love this new technology and it is my default setting for perched birds and those on the ground, or in the water.
I have also been experimenting with it for birds-in-flight and have had some good, initial results using it. I published an earlier article illustrating how it performed with a gull flying directly at my E-M1X. Here is one image and a 100% crop from that article.
Learning any new technology takes some time, but I am very encouraged by the early results that I’ve been able to achieve. I have been using my E-M1X’s Bird Detection AI as my default setting for birds-in-flight, and anticipate that I will become more proficient with it as I gain more experience.
I’ve also been doing some experiments that would fall under the category of “I wonder if this will work?” The image of the moon below is one such recent experiment. Completely on a whim I went out one night with my E-M1X fitted with the M.Zuiko 100-400 mm f/5.-6.3 IS along with the M.Zuiko MC-20 teleconverter.
I don’t have any practical experience photographing the moon, but thought I’d give it a whirl. But, not just any photo of the moon. I decided to try capturing a Handheld Hi Res image. Atmospheric conditions were not the best as there was a faint haze present. My E-M1X was able to process a Handheld Hi Res image. I’ll have to do some research about proper handheld technique for moon photography! And then try some additional images on a crystal clear night.
Image Quality
I’ve found that the image quality of the M.Zuiko 100-400 mm f/5.-6.3 to be excellent and more than sufficient for my specific needs. I regularly shoot this lens wide open when fully extended, even when using M.Zuiko teleconverters. Here are a few sample images at various lens settings…
In-Lens Image Stabilization
Some folks in photography chat rooms seem to make a big deal that the In-Lens IS is not Sync-IS with the M.Zuiko 100-400 mm f/5-6.3 IS. I suppose some people will always find something about which to whine. I view this In-Lens IS subject as a non-issue. It simply is what it is. The only thing that is important to me if whether I can use the lens at slow enough shutter speeds to meet my needs. I don’t really care how the lens is able to do that for me.
The photograph above was captured handheld at 1/10th of a second at a focal length of 400 mm (800 mm efov). My auto-focus point was placed on the tip of the berry. I’ve found that shooting handheld at 1/10th of a second with the M.Zuiko 100-400 mm f/5-6.3 fully extended is the slowest shutter speed that I am comfortable using. Beyond that my likelihood of getting an in-focus image drops off quickly.
The 3 stops of In-Lens IS claimed in corporate advertising is a realistic expectation based on my use of the M.Zuiko 100-400 mm. Assuming good technique most folks should be able to use this lens fully extended at 1/125th of a second, and perhaps a bit slower. Personally, I’m quite comfortable using the M.Zuiko 100-400 mm fully extended at 1/30th to 1/40th of a second.
At a shutter speed of 1/40th of a second with the M.Zuiko 100-400 mm f/5-6.3 IS fully extended, I’ve been able to get good results when using Handheld Hi Res mode.
I’m looking forward to the upcoming spring and summer seasons so I can try using the M.Zuiko 100-400 mm to photograph butterflies, various insects, and flowers
I find it interesting that there isn’t very much noticeable difference in image stabilization performance when using my E-M1X with the M.Zuiko 100-400 mm. Unless I am shooting at quite slow shutter speeds, the E-M1X’s IBIS handles things just as well as the In-Lens IS. When shooting at a typical shutter speed of 1/50 or faster, I usually have the In-Lens IS turned off. I do use the In-Lens IS at slower shutter speeds. The In-Lens IS can be a bit jittery at first. I’ve found that one or two rapid half-taps on the shutter release settles it down quickly.
I suggest that people experiment with their camera to determine whether they should use the IBIS in their camera on the In-Lens IS. This could vary by shutter speed, and with the use of teleconverters.
Use with Teleconverters
One of the biggest advantages of the M.Zuiko 100-400 mm f/5-6.3 is that it is compatible with the M.Zuiko MC-14 and MC-20 teleconverters. I have been using these teleconverters on a very regular basis. If I have enough light, you can bet that one of them will be attached to my M.Zuiko 100-400 mm.
I’ve been experimenting photographing birds-in-flight using both the MC-14 and MC-20 and have been pleased with the results I’ve been able to achieve thus far. It takes quite a bit of practice to get even modestly proficient in terms of eye/hand coordination.
I love the challenge of using teleconverters with M.Zuiko 100-400 mm as they significantly expand what is possible with bird photography.
Getting in tight with subject birds has always been my preferred approach. The MC-14 is much easier to use and this is the teleconverter that is most often affixed to my M.Zuiko 100-400 mm. Here are a few additional sample images…
Use with Flash
I was intrigued to find out if I could use my Olympus FL-700WR flash with the M.Zuiko 100-400 mm zoom. Often telephoto zoom lenses are too long physically to be used effectively with flash units. Shadows from the end of the lens can appear in flash images rendering them useless.
I decided to do some simple tests in my backyard. After removing the lens hood, and attaching my MC-14 teleconverter I captured some simple test images just to see what would happen. As you can see from my test images, even shooting at subjects that were only 3.5 to 4.9 metres (11.5 to 16 feet) away were not an issue at all.
This further increases the functionality of the M.Zuiko 100-400 mm f/5-6.3 IS zoom. Often when photographing small birds in forested areas light can be a challenge. Being able to use fill-in flash helps to compensate for the aperture range of this lens in some situations.
Summary
The M.Zuiko 100-400 mm f/5-6.3 IS zoom lens is a superb piece of photographic equipment. It provides great functionality in a relatively small, lightweight and reasonably affordable package. The M.Zuiko 100-400 mm offers a unique combination of size, weight, equivalent field-of-view, IPX1 weathersealing, a short minimum focusing distance, compatibility with teleconverters, and flash use.
For owners of M4/3 cameras, especially OM-D models, it is an enticing zoom lens. When I first bought into the Olympus camera system my telephoto lens interest was focused on the M.Zuiko PRO 150-400 f/4.5 zoom. What I discovered was that the M.Zuiko 100-400 mm was a much better fit for my needs.
If there is such a thing as ‘birding heaven’ for my specific needs… I think I have found it. The combination of the E-M1X, M.Zuiko 100-400 mm, MC-14 and MC-20 teleconverters, and incredible technology like Pro Capture and Bird Detection AI… just does the job in spades for me! There’s not much else to say…
Technical Note
Photographs were captured hand-held using camera gear and technology as noted in the EXIF data. Images were produced from RAW files using my standard process. Crops are noted where appropriate.
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Hi Tom,
thank you very much for the quick and detailed answer.
To move the AF point do you use a dial on the frontside or the joystick while you are following the bird in the viewfinder?
I would assume doing this needs practice and is not so easy while following a flying bird?
A big thank you for your help and your explanations!
Mike
Hi Mike,
Actually I move the AF point before I even bring my camera up to my eye. Once I spot a bird that is a likely candidate for a BIF image, I quickly use the joystick on the back of my E-M1X to move the point left or right 2 spots depending on the flight direction of the bird. Then when I bring my camera up to my eye, the AF point is already properly positioned. After capturing my images, I then use the joystick to put the AF point back in centre frame to get my camera ready for the next opportunity.
The more familiar one becomes with the external controls on their camera body without having to look at the body to make adjustments, the easier it becomes to react to image opportunities.
Tom
Hello Tom,
I am fascinated by your site and the photos!
Like you (at the time of publishing this article) I have recently started using an M1X plus M.Zuiko 100-400.
At the beginning here in the comments you answered Jeffrey, that you only use a single AF point in conjunction with bird tracking (with the M1X).
I am currently familiarizing myself with this great option (bird AI).
I have read several times now that you should either use all AF points or at least 25 in the center for bird tracking.
If you only work with a single AF point, which part of the flying bird do you try to get? And does the camera in this way “catch” the eye faster?
Thank you very much for this site and your commitment!
Best regards from Germany
Mike
Hi Mike,
When Bird Detection AI Subject Tracking was first introduced on the E-M1X I did a lot of experimentation with the number of AF points. After a lot of experimentation I found that having a single AF point engaged gave me the best results. For my shooting style, the worst results I got was when all AF points were active. I tried a 5×5 grid and found that this was somewhat better than having all AF points active. The best was a single AF point.
I start with the single AF point in centre frame. If the approaching bird-in-flight is flying from left to right, I typically move my AF point 2 spots to the right. This puts it in close proximity to where the bird’s head is likely to be in my composition. If the bird is flying right to left… then I shift the AF point to the left 2 spots. This is assuming that I have time to do so of course. If the bird is an erratic flyer I leave the single AF point in centre frame.
Depending on the speed of the bird, the distance and what part of the bird is display, Bird AI will pick up the whole bird, the head or the eye. Proactively shifting the AF point in real time helps my E-M1X pick up the bird’s head or eye.
Tom
Hi. I have the 100-400mm Olympus lens. As others have commented, my sharpness didn’t appear to be as good. I am using an E-M1 MII. Couple quick questions if you are still responding to this post.
Do you use SAF or CAF mode for focusing?
Do you get good hit rates in lower light situations (a lot of my birding is in heavy woodland canopy or early evening)?
Do you use noise reduction software at all?
Any additional tips for getting the most out of the lens?
Thanks.
Hi Jeffrey,
I use Pro Capture L in combination with Bird AI for my bird-in-flight images.. with CAF +TR. I use a single, small AF point with Pro Capture H for birds-taking flight. I’ve not had any issues with image softness as long as I’m mindful of my technique. I don’t shoot a lot of perched birds in low light so perhaps I’m not the best person to ask.
I use DxO DeepPRIME at the start of my process in post with a setting no higher than 15. I export a DNG file into Photoshop for additional tweaks and sometimes do a bit with Nik. I then finish my files with either Topaz DeNoise AI or Topaz Sharpen AI.
As far as the 100-400 goes, I typically shoot that lens with the IS turned off as I find the IBIS alone in my E-M1X seems to work better. When it comes to birds I find shutter speed is more important than ISO. If you are trying to keep your ISO very low so you may end up using too slow of a shutter speed and your images may suffer a bit as a result. I’d suggest using a higher ISO value with a faster shutter speed to see if that helps image sharpness.
For birds in flight with the E-M1 Mark II I would not use C-AF +TR as this doesn’t work as well as C-AF. I’ve found a 5×5 grid seems to work well. When I use my wife’s Mark III I always use Pro Capture L for birds-in-flight.
When shooting in darker environments I’d try to focus on an area of higher contrast on the bird. Obviously the bird’s eye is the preferred spot. I typically photograph perched birds with a single AF point using Bird AI. I know the Mark II doesn’t have Bird AI… but a well placed AF point at a suitable shutter speed should work. You can also try photographing perched birds using C-AF and shooting in short bursts.
Hope this has helped.
Tom
Hey Tom,
In your reply above you mention birds taking of specifically. For me this has proven to be a rough nut to crack. I don’t use Olympus currently but I think I can learn from your technique. I hope you are willing to share it. You mention the single point AF, preferably placed on the eye. Pro capture is on (which ofcourse helps alot). Isn’t a sudden take off too erratic for the autofocus to keep up with? Or do you manage a big enough DoF to get acceptable sharp pictures? And you mention your technique, what does this involves for you for birds taking off?
Sorry for the burst of questions, I see much potential to learn here.
Hi Tim,
The beauty of shooting with Olympus/OM camera bodies that have Pro Capture (L and H) is that a photographer will never miss a shot of a bird taking flight… unless the photographer’s shutter release timing to too slow.
For birds taking flight I use Pro Capture H set to 60 frames-per-second. With my E-M1X this means that the first frame locks focus and exposure for the rest of the run. I set my Pre-Shutter frames to 15. This is the number of frames that will spool in temporary memory while I have my shutter release half depressed. When I fully depress my shutter release those Pre-Shutter Frames are then written to my memory card. I have my Frame Limiter also set to 15. This means that when I fully depress my shutter release my E-M1X will only write frame spooling in temporary memory to my SD card… and won’t capture any additional frames. This combination of settings gives me 1/4 second of response time to capture a bird after it has done the behaviour I have been waiting for it to do. For birds taking flight I try to time my shutter release just before the bird leaves my composition.
Tom
Hello Thomas,
thanks a lot for this hands on review, which I find is still the best you can find in the www.
It even made me buying this lens, although I preferred the 300mm f4, because I had it already years ago. So lets wait and see when it will arrive at my home.
But at least your pics showing that this lens is capable of catching some BIF.
I am also eager to compare it to my Sony equipment (200-600).
Again thanks for your efforts!
Guido
Hi Guido,
I’m glad the hands-on review was of benefit to you. I know some folks who have the 300 mm f/4 IS and they really enjoy using it. Every piece of camera gear comes with trade-offs within which we need to operate. I’ve always preferred using zoom lenses so the 100-400 is a good fit for me.
Tom
Dear Thomas,
Thank you very much for the thorough and totally enjoyable review. Simply the best for this lens on the net.
After comparing the IQ on my E-M1 II vs the 1V2+1 70-300 I decided to order it and sell my Nikon 1 system. While in terms of absolute size and weight the N1 system is unsurpassed, still I cannot get over the IQ benefit of Oly, also Af seems more accurate and the close up capability will be much used.
Have you kept any part of your N1 system?
Hi Kostas,
I’m glad the review of the M.Zuiko 100-400 was helpful for you.
My wife and I still have our extensive Nikon 1 kit. The last time we used it extensively was during trips to Ireland and Italy in 2019. We have discussed selling part of it, but with COVID we have put that off since we do not want to put ourselves at any unnecessary risk. We may revisit that decision later this year.
Tom
Thank you for the reply Tom!
All the best to you and your wife through the tough times we all go through.
Stay safe, creative and thank you for all the insight through the years.
Kostas
Always a pleasure Kostas!
Tom
Great review! One question… how did you know the exact distance from subject? Any chance you could share some of the ORF files, especially the ones far away (>20m)?
Thanks
Yannis
Hi Yannis,
My E-M1X estimates distance to subject. After I process an image and store them in Windows Explorer the information becomes visible in when I view Properties for a particular photo. Sorry… I never share any of my ORF files for any reason.
Tom
Like Petnov, I also enjoy your excellent blog and pictures. I couldn’t resist the 20% off refurbished deal from Olympus a couple of weeks ago and went ahead and pulled the trigger. The lens appeared to be in like new condition, which has been my previous experience with Olympus, er OM System.
I’ve have enjoyed the lens so far on an E-M1 III and it appears to be sharper than either the RX10 IV or 50-200 SWD at their shared focal lengths. The only thing off I’ve noticed is that there is a little bit of rotational “slop” or movement when the lens is mounted. I imagine this wouldn’t make a performance difference since the image plane is not being tilted, but I haven’t experienced this with any other M43 lenses. Is this normal with the 100-400?
Hi Chris,
I wrote a short article about this lens rotational issue a while ago: https://smallsensorphotography.com/100-400-mount-clarification
Tom
Hi Chris, Ive just purchased this lens and have the same issue. I think it is a common problem. However, it doesn’t feel good on both my om-1 and M 2.
Thanks, very good blog and very nice pictures. This week on Officialolympus shop offer -20% from price (1290€). I think about buy this 100-400. Have nice day from Slovakia. Petnov
Hi Petnov,
I’m glad you’ve been enjoying the blog.
Tom
Thanks for the review. Very nice job. I confess that my success with this lens is not as good as yours. I’ve gotten used to the rotational play, which is very slight in any case. I use a decoration ring from the 40-150 instead of the tripod collar. I’m also finding the lens IS to be a bit jerky and I am starting to leave it turned off. The internal IS is just fine. My problem is that focus acquisition for BIF seems a bit slow and photos are often slightly out of focus. The success in focusing seems unpredictable to me, sometimes the photo is sharp other times not so much. I also have not had as much success as you with low shutter speeds. Clearly I need to work still more on my technique and gain further experience in learning how to use this lens.
Hi Joan,
Thanks for adding to the discussion and sharing your experiences with this lens!
Are you using an E-M1X with this lens or a different camera body? Before Bird Detection AI was available I was having good results using Cluster Area C-AF with my E-M1X. For slow shutter speeds I find that using the In-Lens IS works a bit better than the IBIS only with my E-M1X. It can still be a bit jerky as you point out… but one of two quick taps on the shutter release seems to settle it down quickly.
Tom
Hi Tom,
really convincing photos and comments, that almost make me weak to replace my Nikon 1 equippment with your Olympus tools. The sharpness and details are really tremendous. With the Nikon 1, many a hit is just a stroke of luck and the waste is huge. You are truely a busy blogger and I enjoy reading all your posts. What is keeping me from switching to Olympus so far, is the size and weight compared to the Nikon 1.
I wish you a successful 2021 with a lot of blogs.
Best regards
Klaus
Hi Klaus,
Thanks for adding to the discussion!
I can appreciate your comment about the size and weight of Nikon 1 equipment. It really is a unique system in terms of size/weight/performance and really shines as a travel system. The 1 Nikkor 70-300 f/4.5-5.6 with a V-Series body is still a great, lightweight nature/birding kit.
At some point if you decide to make the switch to OM-D cameras the E-M5 Mark III or the E-M1 Mark III wouldn’t be that much larger and heavier than a V3 with EVF and grip. My wife really enjoys the E-M1 Mark III and the M.Zuiko 14-150 mm f/4-5.6 is a great everyday lens that has the added benefit of being weatherproof.
Tom
Hi Tom,
I will take these alternatives into consideration. Do those have also the superb bird focusing software on board?
Klaus
Hi Klaus,
Bird Detection AI is only available with the E-M1X.
Tom
Thanks for sharing this review! Your images are amazing and inspiring. Your style of writing is what I look for in a review as I want to know about a lens based on experience rather than tech talk that is beyond my expertise.
But, your images….simply stunning!
Hi Stephen,
Thanks for your comment… I’m glad that you found the article useful and the images enjoyable!
Tom