DxO Smart Lighting is an adjustment that I use with all of my RAW files, regardless of the subject matter in my photographs. I can’t comment on the use of this function with larger sensor cameras, but I can say that I’ve found this tool to be very useful with all of my images captured with smaller sensor cameras like Nikon 1 and Olympus/OM System M4/3 equipment.
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DxO Smart Lighting balances brightness levels between shadows and highlights in an image. By analyzing a photograph to identify the lightest and darkest areas, and recovering information in these parts, this function helps to optimize images.

Folks who use smaller sensor cameras are well aware that the sensors in their cameras deliver less overall dynamic range than full frame cameras at the same ISO levels. So, using tools in post that can help maximize the available dynamic range can be very important for users of smaller sensor cameras.

DxO Smart Lighting is one of the corrections that is applied by default when using the DxO Standard preset. DxO Smart Lighting is applied to an entire image by using the ‘Uniform’ command. The intensity of the adjustment can be changed by using Slight, Medium or Strong levels. More precise control can be achieved by using the Custom slider in this function.

Some care in applying the level of DxO Smart Lighting is required. The Slight adjustment produces the most realistic looking outcome, with higher intensity adjustments (i.e. Medium and Strong) running the risk of creating less natural looking results. I don’t use the Universal command with my images, and much prefer the Spot Weighted approach.

Over the years I’ve developed a range of DxO custom presets which are camera, lens and subject matter specific. I use one of these custom presets to start all of my post processing in DxO PhotoLab. These presets save me a lot of time as it applies a specific set of adjustments with a single mouse click.

Once my Custom preset has been applied, I then assess the image to determine which areas may be recoverable in terms of details in highlight and shadow areas, and where I want to start with my file. That’s when I would click on the Spot Weighted command in DxO Smart Lighting… then draw a box around a potential area for correction. I may adjust the size and position of the box as needed to get the overall highlight/shadow balance that I’m trying to achieve.

As is the case when using the ‘Uniform’ command, the entire image is still affected, not just the area inside the drawn box. The reason that I prefer using the Spot Weighted adjustment is that it gives me more control over my image, while still only using the Slight intensity level of adjustment.

I typically use DxO Smart Lighting with the Spot Weighted command before I make any other adjustments in DxO. It is important to me to assess the baseline capture. After that, I may make some minor Selective Tone adjustments or slightly adjust exposure, use the Horizon tool or Perspective control as needed. The key for me is to make as few adjustments as possible before I export a DNG file into my old copy of PhotoShop CS6.

Experience has taught me that if a file needs a lot of significant adjustments in DxO PhotoLab at the initial stage of my post processing… then it isn’t worth my time to continue processing it further. Seldom does a lot of work in post turn a bad capture into a great image… so I don’t waste my time trying.

It has been a process… but over time I’ve learned that the less I have to do with a photograph in post… the better the finished results are likely to be. Trying to get it right in camera is still the best approach to use when out in the field with my camera gear.

I still live by my ‘3 minute rule’… if a photograph takes much longer than 3 minutes in post (including computer processing time) then I just move on to another image… rather than waste my time trying to fix a bad capture. Life if full of better, and more time efficient, opportunities.
Technical Note
Photographs were captured handheld using camera equipment noted in the EXIF data. All images were created from RAW files using my standard process in post. This is the 1,452 article published on this website since its original inception in 2015.
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Thanks for sharing the usage with DxO which I have been using for some time now. Your views on the 3 minute rule is very apt and I personally need to focus on that as I do tend to get sucked into the photograph I am working on rather than deleting it and move to the next one.
Rgds
Manoj
Hi Manoj,
It took me some time to develop the discipline to move on from a file… but I’m glad I did.
Tom
Thanks so much. I really enjoy your candid reviews. I just started using DXO and find it useful. I also like your input that if you spend more than 3 minutes on post-processing a photo, you are wasting your time. I do that too many times as I just think, one more tweak and it will be okay. As they say, garbage in, garbage out but too many times, I don’t believe that!
Hi John,
I’m glad you enjoyed the article… thanks for your comment.
Time is a precious, non-renewable commodity. At some point it is something of which most of us will wish we had more.
Tom
Nice article Tom
I use this Samsung tablet for all my editing and mainly LR Mobile, this has come on leaps and bounds since it’s first iteration and I use the AI features as a beta tester.
Basically I can select my bird and tell the system to look for the background, it’s amazing in auto mode on my raw files.
It works 99.9% of the time!
I apply a light pop and balance contrast and this gives the result
Nice article and when our house is remodeled I will get my iMac out of the loft!
Hi Mark,
Thanks for sharing your experiences with your Samsung tablet and related firmware. Sounds interesting indeed! No doubt there are all kinds of software and firmware advances across the Smartphone and camera industries of which I’m not aware.
Tom